Last hurrah in California

Right before leaving California, I had to go on a road trip to some of my favorite places.  You can't leave the Golden State without spending time outdoors in the sunshine, cruising down Highway 1, exploring the small towns, visiting epic scenery and having a couple amazing days in San Francisco.

One of my best friends from Germany, Stefan, was visiting me for a week, so we rocked Santa Cruz and then set out in a rental car to check out the California beauty.  First stop was Big Sur, a top 5 place for me in the world and just an hours drive south.  Passing Monterey and Carmel, the shops and houses are left behind for grand mountains rolling into the sea.  I love this place and it was awesome to road trip along the coast, popping off for vistas and coffees along the way. 

McWay Falls

Soaking up that sunshine

We hiked the Ewoldsen trail, a perfect example of a California hike as you start way underneath the redwoods along a stream with waterfalls and slowly hike your way up, above the redwoods and into open pastures with oak trees.   From there on, it was time to find a free camping spot and set up the tent.  Pretty damn amazing sunset over the Pacific Ocean, with a mad amount of stars afterwards made for another solid night over in Big Sur.  You just can't beat that place.

Driving back up Highway 1, we stopped off in El Pescadero, small town California, to meet up with a good friend Shannon for lunch.  So many great places to visit along the coast, and this one is a classic, from the hipster coffee shop that charges way too much for vintage items, to the goat farm serving banquet dinners.

San Francisco was next up, with the main tourist sights getting checked off, lots of hills to drive up and down. It always amazes me when you drive and can't see the road under your car right before you go down a hill.  Just no clue about what will come next.  The adventure!  And that is to say nothing of parking perpendicularly on a steep street, having to pull yourself out of the car to get out.

From SF, it was back to Santa Cruz for a few days and then with a different rental car, I packed up everything and drove north to Portland.  From the balmy 60 degree weather by the beach, I drove into freezing rain, and eventually snow in the City of Roses.  Safe and fun driving up there, and then we were snowed in Portland style at the family house.  Which means that 2 inches of snow back up all the streets and no one goes to work.  So we just had good times at the house.  The family reunited once again!

Headed to South America at the start of January!

More world adventures going to start real soon!  Goodbye amazing California, hola Sudamérica !

Skyline to the Sea Trail

We drove for about 1 hour up into the mountains, through windy roads, out of the beach fog and into the blue skies.  I got dropped off at Castle Rock State Park, and set out with my backpack back to the ocean, starting the 30 mile Skyline to the Sea Trail, passing through 3 state parks along the way.

The start had the best views, from the highest point of the trail at over 3000 feet.  I could see the whole Monterey Bay from up there.  Pretty damn epic, seeing the other side where Monterey and Carmel are, and then the ocean, and finally the end of the mountains so many miles away.  This picture gives a great image of where I was starting and where I was headed:

Most people think that it is all downhill from 3000 feet, but it is far from that, as any hiker of the trail would tell you.  Lots of ups and downs, going down to creek level, and then up on top of ridges seemingly every hour.  All those hills you see above, well, I walked around them all, weaving through past towering redwoods.  Here's a chart that shows the elevation change:

From the ocean views in the first few miles with peace and quiet, the trail descended to a heavily forested area, passing a couple creeks and then staying close to the country highway.  Not much car traffic, but not the best part of the hike.  The scenery was good, and it was nice to see some changing colors in the trees.  Mainly sycamore trees were changing colors down nearby the creeks, as the pines and redwoods were just as green as ever. 

I made it to the Waterman Gap Trail Camp in under 4 hours, cruising along with just a couple short breaks.  Not much of a camp there, with just flat area for campsites and a drop toilet.  Found a tree I could lean against, had lunch, read a bit and chilled.  About 1/3 of the way done, time to kick it for an hour.  Then back to the trail.  Which lead upwards almost 1000 feet to China Grade, upon which there was a noticeable change in tree variety on the other side of the hill with more sunlight coming through. Here are some pictures from before China Grade:

Cables!

Autumn starting to kick in

 Although there are mountain lions, rattlesnakes and potentially bears out there, the biggest threat seemed to be being hit by a falling branch or tree.  The park service takes care of them pretty quick, but there were trees down all along the way, that you had to climb over, under or through.  They've cut some sweet opens for the hikers, whether it's steps up a tree, or a 4 feet wide chunk gone so you can pass through.  Often you can see the full root system of the towering redwood on its side, looking like mini trees all sticking out with dirt still attached.

 

Towards the second half there was more water, which was great for my water filter I'd brought.  Only had to use it once, but it was great to have along for the first time.  Each trail camp, spaced out about every 10 miles, had potable water, so with 2 liters and a full belly, you could easily get by.  But the water that you passed along the way got better and better. Some serene scenes along the way:

I camped out in the redwoods a half hour short of Big Basin, settling in and stretching the legs.  Sun went down and I went down.  At 7pm.  I'd hiked pretty much from 9am and stopped around 5pm, with some breaks and the hour lunch, for a grand total of just over 6 hours of hiking.  From the trail markings along the way, I'd hiked about 17 miles, over halfway there.  Well deserving of sleeping under the towering trees, with just a couple squirrels nearby making noise.

The second day went pretty quick.  Legs felt strong and I cruised through, stocking up on water from Big Basin Headquarters and then passing Berry Creek Falls on the way out.  Around 5 hours after starting my hike, I saw the ocean after smelling it for the last mile.  Such a good sight to see!

All together, the hike took just under 12 hours and was epic.  Great scenery, elevation change and time to think and practice counting to 100 in Spanish.  I finished with a swim in the ocean, then read more and watched the surfers before my ride came.  I'd reached the beach 2 hours before the time I'd asked to be picked up at, as when you're moving, you're moving and can't stop.  Nice to just keep going and finish strong.  Great hike, and an even greater night when the Dodgers won game 4.

The 30 mile hike

Here's a little video from the start of hiking the Skyline to the Sea trail.  It spans 30 miles from way up in the Santa Cruz Mountains, through numerous ups and downs, peaks, valleys, creeks and camps, and ends at the beach.  As someone who loves hiking and loves the beach, this is a sweet hike to have the ocean as your end goal.  Hiking over 2 days, camping under the redwoods and knowing that the ocean is waiting for you to finish with a swim, well, you just can't beat that...

Amazingness in the land of nothingness

I found myself out in the middle of the countryside, outside of small town Sonoma County, away from the buzz of the wineries and civilization.  Just a simple stage, one that was used many a time in the last century, opened up on the back of a truck.  Lights were strung out, tables with food and drink were set up, and blankets placed on the ground.  It was a night of merrymaking, of magic, of music and of freedom. 

To the sound of gypsy folk music (complete with stand up bass and a bassoon to match the accordion), a magician pulled flowers, scarves and finally a chicken out of a tuba.  Later on, he would show us a sword, cutting an apple in half with it, and then proceed to swallow the sword, as if it were the naturalist thing in the world.  The chicken remained present, wandering around, being chased by the local dog.

A different man, dressed as the devil, emerged with a single flame, which he swallowed like he was a cat eating a goldfish.  He filled up a bowl with liquid, lit it on fire, and then spooned it into his mouth like cereal.

A while later, an electronic, indie folk band came on and jammed out, separating the sounds of cicadas with smooth music, varied singers and 3 piece harmonies.  In between songs, they talked of the magic in the air and how special it was to play in an enchanted location.

What began with a brunch feast of eggs, potatoes, pancakes and fresh fruit, turned into quite the amazing day.  Not bad for a Monday.

More pics of an epic hike

Here's some more pictures from the hike to Half Dome.  You start on the Mist Trail and pass two waterfalls, Vernal and Nevada.  Well, pass is an easy way to say it.  It's a pretty steep ascent, up carved in steps, that can get slippery depending on how much water is flowing and how much wind is blowing it around, hence the name Mist Trail.  This is at the early stage of the hike after some normal inclined switchbacks.  It's a proper workout, and for a lot of people, plenty of hiking on the day.  I was feeling fresh, with a full backpack of food, water and tent, and somehow cruised up, passing people with the scent of a summit to keep me going.

Hiking some steep steps up to Vernal Falls, on the way to Half Dome

Nevada Falls from below.

After the two falls, you are way higher up, and have a level mile of hiking with good views of Half Dome through the trees. Then solid forested switchbacks start and take a while before coming to the last bit before the cables.  Here, you are again on carved in steps, that are just as steep as before, except you've now hiked over 7 miles.  The views of the surrounding mountains start to get amazing here, a little taster of what you will see on top of the Dome.

Working my way up more steep granite stairs to get to the base of Half Dome's peak, where the cables are

View from the last switchbacks before the cables

Some epic scenery all around above the trees

That classic post hike shot of the feet, 13+ miles on the day, and plenty filthy

The river by my campsite, perfect to wash off a sweaty body that made it to the top of Half Dome in 4 hours

That water was so amazing.  Not as icy cold as fresh snow melt in the springtime, but still refreshing as hell to get the sweat and dirt off.  Some nice rocks to lie out on and snooze.  Also, mighty tasty, as this is the water source once you're up in the wilderness.  You need to treat it, but, cold, refreshing water after a great hike is always a win.

Sights around Yosemite

That's not a blue screen folks, that's the real deal.

Here are some pictures from my hikes and time around Yosemite.  Pretty damn amazing everywhere you look, from the river, to the redwoods, to the pines, to the huge rock faces all around.  Plus, the United States' tallest waterfall.  This place has it all.  Such a pleasure to have time to hike around, stop and enjoy the view.  Can't pass up a good trip to a US National Park!

View from Tunnel View

Looking back at Half Dome through the trees

El Capitan on the right to go with the great Yosemite Valley

Capturing the Merced River, with my favorite Half Dome

View from the valley floor looking back at the sights, with El Capitan on the left, Half Dome at the Back and Bridalveil Falls on the right

Half Dome as seen from Mirror Lake (more like Puddle Lake in the summer)

In the glorious El Capitan Meadows

Hiking to the top of Half Dome

The infamous cables, straight up the rock face for the final push to the summit

Going straight up!

The last 500 feet of the Half Dome hike (17 miles roundtrip) are the craziest.  You're faced with a shear rock wall of granite that you looks unassailable.  And yet, the cables which were installed almost 100 years ago (proper upkeep along the way), are a great way to get up there.  You pretty much pull yourself up, with 2x4 pieces of wood every 10 feet or so at the poles.  Gives you a spot to stand without worrying about slipping down, and take a breather, or let someone pass.  That's right, the cables are a two way path, despite being about 4 feet wide.  People need to figure out who goes first and where to move to the side with their packs on.  Tight squeeze!  Sometimes it's just easier to to sit and get most of your body out of the way and rest your feet on the pole:

It's a solid workout, but the views up top are worth it, to go with major feeling of accomplishment which hits you on top.  The 360 degree views of Yosemite are some of the best out there, although most people would prefer to look at the glorious Half Dome instead of be on top of it.  Being 4,800 ft off the valley floor, you get a whole new perspective of the park.

One of the iconic pictures on top of Half Dome is out on a ledge overlooking the valley.  You're out there on a ledge with pretty much nothing below you, feeling on top of the world.  Here I am flexing the muscles, having conquered the dome:

Kicking back with the feet over the edge

So yeah, it's worth the trip to the top, even when you're climbing the cables and look down:

See if you can find the people standing at the base of the cables (they're mighty small)

And of course, there's that happy feeling when you've made it back down off the cables, knowing that you accomplished and saw greatness on top:

Half Dome

That's me in the red shirt overlooking the valley almost 5000ft below

Just spent 3 days in Yosemite, with the highlight being hiking Half Dome.  An unbelievable hike, with some of the best views I've ever seen.  The last part of the hike is up a shear cliff, where you use cables to help pull yourself up the granite face.  Once believed to be "perfectly inaccessible", it is now limited to 300 people per day.

Here are a few pictures from the top, with more to come soon.  Such an epic hike, and great time in Yosemite, there will be several posts about this majestic National Park.

Exploring the central coast

 Here are a few pictures from some road tripping north of Santa Cruz.  Perfect beaches off the highway, out of sight, that you have to walk through fields of brussel sprouts to get to.  Can't beat a beach with few people in the middle of summer.  Hope you're enjoying yours!