The south of the south starring the Catlins

Nugget Point Sunrise
The scruff and the falls

The southernmost point on the south island

The travelers see Stewart Island in the distance

Big Blue spends a night on the beach


Named after a former landowner, the Catlins is basically the very southern part of NZ, along the water, full of beaches, waterfalls, caves, fields and heaps of sheep. At Slope Point, you are at the southernmost part of the south island. Since we’d already been to the northernmost point on the north island, it was customary to be a good tourist and do the bottom of the bottom. Pretty rough water out there, with a few islands a ways off being the actual southern part of NZ. We saw some sweet 4 tiered waterfalls along with an old shipwreck from 50 years ago. Several lighthouses, along with seal sightings were other stops that we hit up along the way, going from sealed to unsealed roads, taking our time, enjoying it all and trying to stay ahead of the rain, which we actually did for a while.

For about the third night in a row, we ended up camping on top of a hill. With it being autumn and having had a cold spell lately, it was again a cold night. Bundled up in some woolen socks that were used in Antarctica (not sure if that means they work in the cold, or they didn’t work and therefore were sent back) and an extra blanket, we made it through to wake up for another sunrise. Unlike the last few days where there were too many clouds, we had some breaks of blue skies for the sunrise over Nugget Point.

Nugget Point is unbelievable. Nugget shaped rocks spread around the water, with a lighthouse on the cliffs above make it a good photo op. Watching the sun come up, with nothing but you and nature, is tough to beat. That’s definitely been one of the highlights of each day on the trip. The clouds which were there, rained and then hailed on us, but that couldn’t take away from the place. Nothing like watching the sun rise, with blue skies in the distance and yet getting pelted with small frozen raindrops. Definitely better than the blowhole from the day before that wasn’t blowing. Anyways, from Invercargill through the Catlins, we made it out to the eastern part of the southland.

Dunedin is a wicked city, full of students and some great microbreweries, plus one of the best botanic gardens around. From beer tasting, to walking up the steepest paved street in the world, to viewing the city from the highest mountain around, Dunedin was a good stop. Nearby, the Otago Peninsula, is full of seals, albatrosses and lots of other wildlife. We spent a day out there, swimming around in the cold water and checking everything out. At the beach where we swam, there were some seals showing off and posing, while the penguins were in hiding. It was a wicked day, even with having to hike up for 20 minutes up sand dunes. Great views, blue skies and not many people, out in nature: what the Otago Peninusla is all about.

The Warrant of Fitness test

In New Zealand, cars older than 5 years have to get a Warrant Of Fitness test done every six months. The WOF is a safety test, to make sure that your car is safe for the road, both for you and other drivers. After owning Big Blue for a few months, our warrant was up and we headed south to the largest city around, Invercargill to get it done. Like most travelers, we wanted to get the warrant passed and on our way, no hassles, nice and easy. We found out about an easy garage in the middle of nowhere that was perfect, but he was in a spot of trouble and couldn’t do any warrants, so we had to look into other garages. After having no luck with getting a warrant on the same day, we happened upon a garage that could do it right away. They turned out to be a very strict garage and were quite nice to come up with several things wrong with the van that had to be fixed in order to pass the WOF.

Luckily Invercargill is a big city and after checking out some repair places, we found a place that could scramble up everything we needed, from welding some cracks, getting a new seat belt cover for us, changing brake hoses and a few other things. Unlike the 500 dollars quoted at the strict garage, we were able to get the work done for pretty cheap, paying not even half that amount.

Allan, the repair/salvage yard owner, was a genius with cars, but had to do all the work as he hired 3 braindead people to work for him. Things took a while there, but after 2 days, everything was set, and we passed our warrant. The delay gave us time to see Bluff, famous for their oysters and windy hills, plus good views of Stewart Island.

We drove on the beach where Burt Munroe raced his famous Indian, as seen in The World’s Fastest Indian. Not bad for an old timer to be setting speed records in a self modified 1920s motorcycle. We spent the night on the beach, hoping the high tide wouldn’t be too high and sweep the van away. In the morning, with just a couple tiny islands in between us and Antarctica, we went for a swim. The water was mighty cold, refreshing, and rejuvenating. Clean and ready to rock, with a safe van, we were able to leave the southwest of NZ and move on to the east coast.

Southern sweetnes, yeah the south island rocks

The travellers reach the southern lakes

Nothing like stone towers and waterfalls

Sunset at Lake Wanaka, where it got down to 0 degrees celsius

Natural hot springs after a 7 hour hike up towards the southern alps

The wild west coast


Here are some pictures from the last few weeks of travel on the south island.

http://picasaweb.google.com/JustusPB/BeyondTheApple#

Starting with the apples and going through amazing valleys along a river out to the west coast where the beaches were super rough. Driving past vineyards and orchards into the valley was great, as the trees are starting to change colour for autumn and the riverbed was lined with water, stones and trees. The drive along the west coast is also pretty impressive with scattered islands and rocks and some of the rougher water we’ve seen in NZ. The beach swimming wasn’t as nice as before, as you’ll see in a few pics where the waves are higher than I am, and just 10 feet away from the shore, thus being super strong and taking out our feet as we went it. The fact that the beaches were filled with rocks that were shot at our ankles by the waves didn’t help getting out too far, but made for an entertaining time.

Also entertaining on the west coast were the sandflies. For those who haven’t been to NZ before, they are worse than mosquitos. They look like little black flies, quite harmless until they land on you and bite, and when you smack them away, there’s blood coming out. Little bastards. Heaps of them too, surrounded a lot of the time down by the beach. For dinner, we’d walk around eating, trying not to get attacked. We’ve learned a few of the kiwi tricks to fighting them off, using an antiseptic mixed with baby oil which works well. Keeps them from biting, but they’re still around.

The glaciers are a huge draw after the pancake rocks for tourists. Pretty impressive, with the tallest mountain, Mt Cook and the southern alps behind them as a background. After checking out a small gold mining town, we hiked the overnight Copland Track. 7 hours of hiking up through small creeks and rivers, past tons of rocks and landfalls up to a hut surrounded by mountains and some natural hot springs. In the morning, we were greeted with views of snow capped mountains from the nearby river before heading back to the carpark and the sandflies.

From the west coast, we drove to the southern lakes, a land full of huge, blue, beautiful lakes. We’re in Wanaka right now, have been for 4 days. Such an amazing town, on what is regarded as the most beautiful lake in NZ. They’ve got an amazing brewery, a sweet toy museum, lots of hiking, the world’s largest two story maze and much more. Plus Uncle Mike’s BBQ, serving up some great American pork ribs. Today we hiked out to another glacier, driving around the lake up towards snow capped mountains, just doesn’t get any better than that.

West Coast

The west coast is full of rough beaches and mountains. We've moved into the higher mountains now, called the Southern Alps with a few glaciers to check out. Pretty sweet stuff, but not as cool as the pancake rocks, sandstone rocks that have a pancake look to them. Well not really, more so to a 5 year old, but they're amazing, standing apart out in the water, with natural bridges and blowholes in them. Very cool, and yet they sadly got a childish name.

The towns on the west coast aren't all that hot, meaning there's not much to do. It was a big gold and coal mining area, which has died down leaving just a few good breweries to hit up, plus some boring mining hikes.

Tomorrow we're off to hike the Copland track, an overnight hike that heads up towards Mt Cook, the hightest mountain in NZ, hitting a high elevation with hot pools by the hut. Shouldn't reach the snow, but should be cold. With good weather, the pictures will be good.

After 2 days of glaciers, Franz Josef and Fox, the weather feels colder. But that didn't stop us from going to the beach this afternoon at a rough and rocky beach. Pretty crazy out there, with rocks being whipped at you in the water, but still a good time.

Hope everyone is having a grand old weekend.

South Island Photos

http://picasaweb.google.com/JustusPB/TheIslandCloserToAntarcticaThanTheOtherOne#

Got a few photos for you guys to look at of the adventures as we get closer to antarctica and the weather gets colder, but still remains sunny

Apples galore

If you've got a cold morning, apple picking is a great remedy for warmth

How 'bout dem apples?

Check out the size of those bins


My career as an apple picker ended almost as soon as it started. To put it bluntly like the British do, the work is shite. Out there in the hot sun, doing manual labor, standing 8 feet above the ground, wearing a basket holding pounds of apples, gee that sounds like fun. But it was a good time while it lasted. We worked on Friday, getting a good taste of what it would be like. Starting off in the cold morning, in a work group made up entirely of Thais, who kicked ass and made us look super slow. We did the average of 4 bins each, which equates after tax to about 100 dollars for the day. Check out the size of those bins, hundreds of apples in each. About a cubic meter full, which is something big in square or cubic feet.

So we worked the Friday and then had 3 days off. So what do we do? Go exploring another new part of the country, Golden Bay which rocked. Super sunny, with grassy fields on the bottom of a valley surrounded by amazing hills going out to golden, warm beaches. Not too shabby. After attempting to run 10k in the forest by the beach, I hurt my knees and got to be a gimp again, thus ending our illustrious apple picking career. A good, legitimate reason not to work and also why work now in the summer with good weather when I can work it off in Wellington at a job I enjoy with good people around.

So we’re done picking apples, and with about 30 apples from the orchard we are heading down the west coast to gold mining cities and glaciers. The travels continue, a week ahead of schedule, meaning more chilling and enjoying the country.

Abel Tasman

My arch can kick your arches butt

Early morning low tide hike across mud flats, crossing with new friends Lara and Jeff

Refreshing water after a couple hours kayak

How a master kayaker looks

Probably the only time my paddle wasn't going super fast in the water



To put it in easy words, Abel Tasman rocks. The national park in the northwest of the south island, is full of isolated, golden beaches and super clear blue water. It's what most people would consider an island paradise, scattered with islands and amazing shorelines along the coast. Seals and dolphins abound, along with sting rays and fish. From the jungle like mountains surrounding the water, down to the thick glass-like sand, or the smooth white sand, it's pretty amazing.

I spent 3 days there, kayaking for two of them and hiking for another. Camping out, surrounded by the dark starry sky at night, and walking through sea shell scattered beaches in the day. Not a bad way to enjoy pefectly sunny days.

The kayaking was definitely the best part. Stefan and I got suited up in our double kayak and set off exploring some islands first before sticking to the beaches along the coast. Seemed like every 15 minutes we were at another beach. Hardly anyone out there, as the tourist summer season is about over. Lots of lagoons and estuaries along the way, with one leading up to a river, only accesible at high tide. Paddled upstream to a swing bridge up above, where we talked with 2 people we would later see at the campsite and hike with the next day.

It was a great few days and a good way to get over a bit of illness I had after hiking in the Marlborough Sounds. More to come on that later.

Surfing with volcanoes

Surftime

Typical New Zealand


Perfect beach free of human contact by roads


Today has been amazing, waking up to a wicked sunset from our beach parking lot spot. Then on to climb the volcano (not active they say) with great views all around. On one side you have the city, sticking out on a peninsula that ends with the volcano, beaches on both sides all the way down. The other side you have another beach across the water that has no roads going to it and goes on forever, unblemished by humans (apart from those sneaky kayakers who were out there). On the way down, we passed sheep out in a pasture on another side, which set up a typical NZ photo with sheep, water, beach, green and a volcano. Yup, this is life in Kiwiville.

After hiking the volcano and chilling with fresh watermelon by the beach volleyball court, it was time to rent surfboards and hit the water for a few hours. Great waves, hot sun and perfect surroundings. Good to be out surfing again on a hot summer day.

Me and Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings

The hunchback sits in a crater, a prequel by Victor Hugo

We make it to the Emerald Lakes, bright lakes in between volcanoes and craters

Crater behind one of the Emerald Lakes

View through a mini tiki hut on the beach out at the Pacific Ocean

New Chums Beach, an unbelievable oasis of a cove amongst the rocks and trees

Nice long, private beach for us

Today we went to a beach that is in the top 20 in the world. Unbelievable. A perfect sheltered bay surrounded by cliffs, palm trees and caves. Felt like we had just been shipwrecked with hardly anyone around. Took a decent hike to get there through water, rocks, a hill forest and a palm tree forest, coming out on the super soft white sand. Spent several hours there loving it before heading back to grill up some mussel sausages, something the locals go crazy for out here. Big seafood feast.

A few days ago we hiked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing which passes through 2 volcanoes, a couple craters and some amazing emerald lakes high up amidst it all. A lot of Lord of the Rings was filmed here, with one of the volcanoes being used as Mt Doom. After making it through sideways rain to get there, up mountains in midst and almost snow, the craters were well worth it. The one we crossed felt like we were in Star Wars and the red crater did not look natural with its strong colour.

I'll update more soon as my battery is about out and we have no power source. Luckily found a wireless hotspot out in the middle of nowhere next to a pub. That's all there is in this town. On the way to Hot Water Beach, a beach with hot springs under it. Supossedly it'll burn your ass, cause it's so hot.

Sandboarding

Fishing for pacific salmon

Caves, beaches, tourist bathrooms, sand dunes, oh yeah

The Wellington Ukulele Orchestra at the Cuba St Carnival

Big Blue enjoys a sunset on Cape Egmont

The largest and oldest Kauri tree in New Zealand

The Dodgers and the Sugar Loaf Islands

Cape Reinga Lighthouse, the northernmost point of the north island

Sandboarding in the northland

Chilling with Big Blue and the ocean background

Big Blue and the Bay of Islands

Famous, crazy artistic toilets

Does this count as spelunking?

So after 2 weeks, I get to go online for the second time. Been busy out around the country, exploring the north island, seeing a ton and living it up. The van is still going great, been driving a lot and put on 3000 kilometers so far.

After leaving Auckland we went up to the Bay of Islands passing through Kawakawa, the place of the infamous Hundertwasser toilets. Austrian artist Hundertwasser designed some crazy toilets with no straight lines in a town in the middle of nowhere, which has become a spot to come, relieve yourself, take a photo and leave. Gotta love it.

Explored some sweet caves nearby the Bay of Islands which were off the beaten path and better than some of the other touristy, expensive ones. Hiked in through slippery rock, to wade through knee deep water through funky rocks, glow worms and lots of darkness.

The northland was my favorite part of the north island so far. Super white, soft beaches with hardly anyone around. Great sandboading, sliding down super steep hills at rocket speeds. At the top we cooked dinner after bodysurfing where the two oceans meet and chilled with the sun setting in one of the most isolated places in NZ.

Down in New Plymouth we went on a tour of the seals around the Sugar Loaf islands, catching heaps of pacific salmon along the way, two of which we were able to take back with us for a huge feast. Fresh fish, along with roasted sweet potato and sweet corn, oh that's the life. Not eating like normal travelers, eating quite well and living it up.

First 5 days of travel / PHOTOS

So I've been gone from Wellington for 5 days now, on the road in Big Blue, Stefan and I traveling around seeing the north island of New Zealand. It's been a blast so far, as expected. We are up in Auckland now, having got here late last night. Been taking our time, enjoying it and see heaps of the country. Haven't been slowed down by sheep yet, but we've been on plenty of windy roads, green countryside and dirt roads that NZ is famous for.

After a day in Waikane, getting things taken care of on our van (oil change, fastening seats, air filter etc.) we went to Turangi to some wicked hot springs. Stefan hit up bungy jumping along the way in the highest place in the north island. Pretty high jump down to the river, some 80m down. We stayed overnight at some private hot springs, off the main path, being able to chill with no one around, just lots of heat and moisture. The next morning, waking up to heat, and moisture in the van, we cooked breakfast over a hot spring, which some Maori locals had shown us. Super fun way to cook food, slow, but it got the job done naturally, using heat from the earth.

Lake Taupo was huge, famous for trout fishing. Cool city too, and we camped on the outskirts near a huge waterfall at a free campground. Super strong river there, which was refreshing after organizing the inside of the van. The gas cooker worked great and the next morniing after another good swim in the river, we had breakfast and on the road again to the west coast to the big beaches. It rained the whole day, but that didn't stop us from swimming in the Tasman Sea in the biggest waves I've seen so far in NZ. Found some hot water springs on the beach too, that weren't too hot due to the rain and tide and one hour later after swimming and coming out drier than before, they weren't too much hotter.

Now we've explored Auckland and are off to an island tomorrow morning nearby to do some wine tasting and hiking.

Private hot springs in Turangi, dug out by the locals

Cooking breakfast of eggs and ham over the hot springs, old fashioned Maori style

Big Blue with breakfast table out back at free campground in Lake Taupo

Big Blue and I, rocking the North Island

Fresh corn, enough said

Green countryside, dotted with cows, and covered with summer clouds

Stefan, Big Blue and the Tasman Sea near Kaphia

Auckland, as seen from Mt Eden, the highest volcano in the city

Queen Victoria with palm trees? Must mean I'm on a south pacific island

Big Blue!

Check out my new van that I'll be traveling around New Zealand in:







Pretty excited to have the van finally. Way wicked. The best part might be the carpet. Right now Stefan is putting a roof rack on it and we're putting in some seats in the back as well to transport mates around town in. Pretty fun to cruise around in, with a good stereo system and lots of character. Couple small problems with it, but those are being taken care of by the experts, us and our mates.

Wellington by Night

Photo from Mt Victoria