Monday, September 16, 2013

Lake Issyk Kul and beyond!



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Wow, these last couple days have been amazing.  After all of us being sick for a few days (now cured by antibiotics which make me feel like superman), the adventures have been plentiful and pure Kyrgyzstan. Non-stop fun as usual in this country, exploring and feeling at home, and living very cheaply.

We went off the grid Saturday morning, took a minibus out of Karakol and headed up the mountains on a wicked hike, through the alpine forests, along a small river, with snowy mountains ahead, and natural hot springs awaiting us.  It was an easy hike, probably too easy as the incline was so slight, that the 500 meter elevation gain took 4 hours. We were almost knocked over by herds of horses, cows and sheep, with laughing cowboys who shouted hellos at us (as most of the friendly Kyrgyz people do).  At the top of one hill, we looked out and saw this amazing view beyond of where we would be staying, a perfect setup of huts in the middle of a valley alongside the river.

The hot springs were worth the trip up, as was the view up there, surrounded by amazing mountains, some of which had snow, others which soon would be getting snow, as it was getting colder and had just started to rain.  Later on we played cards with Belgian friends from Karakol and ate our instant noodles for dinner, before being told that our beds (in a veranda that was leaking and a bit windy) were being moved to a new spot as it might snow that night.  The beds were moved into a room filled with 3 Russian couples drinking vodka who had to push all their beds together to squeeze our beds in.  Quite a tight fit, to make for an entertaining night, capped off by snoring contests and springy bed noise.

I woke up early and walked up a hill to get a wicked view of a green meadow with horses, with fresh snow in the distance.  Felt just like being in Switzerland.  But a storm was coming so we had to hustle downhill quick.  We went mighty fast, but still had over an hour of walking in rain (felt just like Portland).  Luckily the last 30 minutes were in sun and we dried out and caught a minibus back to Karakol, grabbed our bags and set off to get close to lake Issyk Kul in a small town called Tamga known for its beach.  Our guesthouse was located right on the entrance to an old Soviet sanitarium.  Dinner was at an empty cafe in the sanitarium (only place to eat in town) with the usual all Russian menu.  Ania translated as always and the feast was on!

Today we rode horses up to an old Tibetan carving on a stone that used to be the border between China and Kyrgyzstan in the 13th century.  I named my horse Roscoe, although it should've been Rascal as he kicked Eliza's horse in the head, Ania's horse in the leg and tried to bite Ania.  But I liked him as he was the leader and had a good look to him, plus a lively step.  Good views of the lake on the way up, and plenty of streams to cross over, including one where Roscoe decided to jump over it instead of walk through.  As usual, there were apples and pears all over on the ride.

We rode the horses back through town to our guesthouse, and then after my legs returned to normal width, we hiked up to the cemeteries, looking like a small town on a hill overlooking the lake.  The Russian Orthodox and Muslim cemeteries are on separate hills, right next to each other.  Amazing views of the lake up there, plus some interesting graves showing each religion.

Later we chilled by the lake and explored more of the town.  Lake Issyk Kul is the 2nd largest alpine lake out there, and is surrounded right now by snow covered mountains.  Very impressive stuff.  Amazing days, amazing times.  Life is good! 

Pictures are ready, waiting for a good wifi connection.  Soon I hope.  Okay, no more reading, get outdoors and enjoy the sun.

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